Hotel Supramonte da Ziu Raffaele


Crossing the Supramonte from Funtana Bona to Lanaittu.
Our New Year’s Eve has been different, but for the first of the year we have always tried to organize ourselves with alternative days.

It was a fairly long and unexpectedly demanding trek, due to a small muscle problem that slowed our march a little bit but that did not stop us from experiencing this thrilling adventure.

About 30 km of trekking in two days  from Ilodei Malu’s Casermetta until reaching Lanaittu, passing through Doloverre.

From Orgosolo to Oliena in the heart of the Supramonte, with a toast to the new year in what has been our Hotel for one night: the Ziu Raffaele cuile.

We did not even meet a hiker for a strange coincidence along our way. To accompany us only the “silence” of nature at times interrupted only by our chatter.

And so on, backpacker!

Verso Funtana Bona

First stop Funtana Bona and immediately after Monte Novo San Giovanni that we leave behind not to waste too much time, given the miles that are waiting for us. On the right we take the dirt road that will take us to Gutturu Nioi and to the sheepfolds of Su Badu ‘e S’eni.

Panorama with views of Monte Novo San Giovanni from Gutturu Nioi
Towards Su Badu ‘e S’Eni

From here following the ancient cart we will arrive in Badde de Tureddu in a short time, a path that we have done many other times and that we have also told , with a small deviation to the left along the stream you can admire the famous holm oak embedded in the rock. After crossing the stream, we arrive in a few minutes at our lunch stop at the Sa Senepide cuile.

The interior of the cuile sa Senepide

After leaving the fold we take the road to continue our journey. We do a small supply of water in the last available source that is located in a beautiful equipped and fenced area. Our trek takes us to Sos Campidanesos and Campu Su Mudecru, characteristic for the residual trunks of juniper trees destroyed by the fire of the 50s.

Crossing of campu Su Mudecru

Crossed the field with small detours you can visit Sas Baddes famous forest of holm oaks and never cut. It is considered by many to be one of the last strips of the holm oak that covered the island, with its characteristic sheepfolds and the chasm Su disterru. Also not far is the Nuraghe Mereu (Intr’e Padente), which can be visited with a little more time available, maybe on a slightly longer days.

You climb and the view is truly breathtaking, you can even see Nuraghe Mereu.

Our path takes a bit to climb up to get Janna ‘and Gori and finally we can see the Campu Donianigoro plateau. The tiredness begins to make itself felt but the unmistakable shape of the Cuile Ziu Raffaele seems to make all the fatigue disappear for the km traveled, almost 23 in 8 hours of walking, a nice average, perhaps (as we will find out later) too sustained!

A small annotation:

the idea of ​​doing this trekking we had the rereading the famous guide Conrad Corrado, The Great Crossing of Supramonte, however, for our distraction, we did not notice the fact that we had to follow a different path from the one no longer used and dotted with ancient sheepfolds that instead we followed. In our GPS tracks there is a discrepancy with respect to the route of Corrado Conca which is undoubtedly the easiest way to fully enjoy this itinerary. A detour that cost us about two kilometers of very difficult path in the middle of the forest and the furrowed fields.

For those who want to buy the Corrado Conca guide find it here:

It seems incredible but we are alone, a pastoral suite for two to toast the new year! The day was incredibly beautiful and even the evening promises well. We light a nice fire and with the embers we prepare our roasted and of course the whole accompanied by the cannonau.

Final toast and greetings to the old year with the full moon to illuminate our night and the strong wind to “cullarci”, so to speak, in our sleep


The next day we had to make a change of program due in part to the bad weather sudden strong wind and rain (the predictions gave high pressure stable, beautiful temp) and partly due to a very strong pain in Marc’s left knee. Almost certainly the problem was a muscular resentment but, surely, it would not have allowed us to go backwards. So we decide to go downhill to Lanaittu, following the path 480 CAI that leads us to Punta Doronè and then to Doloverre.

Towards Punta Doroné, the poles proved to be precious with one knee in poor conditioni

For those wishing to retrace this fascinating (and tiring) walk in the Supramonte can view and download the track on our profile Wikiloc.



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